7/26/2024
Nike Investors Question Treatment of Garment Workers Overseas
Bloomberg Law (07/26/24) Kalra, Avani
Nike Inc. (NKE) investors are redoubling their efforts to pressure the sports retailer to focus on treatment of workers in its supply chain, as the company attempts to freshen its image and boost slumping sales with its Olympics “Winning Isn’t for Everyone” ad campaign. Shareholders plan to reintroduce a proposal at this fall’s annual meeting asking Nike to report on how its equity goals and human rights commitments line up with its supply chain management infrastructure. And a different investor activist group has announced in the run-up to the Paris Olympics that it will offer a second specific worker rights proposal at Nike’s September 10 meeting. Investors coalesced around the worker rights issue in 2023 after more than 4,000 garment workers employed by Nike suppliers said they are owed $2.2 million dollars in wages and benefits. Cambodia’s Arbitration Council, the labor dispute resolution body in the country, declined to rule on the workers’ claims saying it lacked jurisdiction. The new proposal up for a vote this September is a resolution requesting that the company examine supply chain oversight mechanisms like social responsibility principles for its suppliers and binding agreements with labor organizations. The bid comes after Nike had reported its biggest share price fall in more than two decades, down 60% from highs at the end of 2021. The company is responding to the slump with a slew of Olympic ads, with one focusing on athletes’ relentless drive already drumming up significant social media attention. “This Olympics, we want to know that Nike is a responsible company that treats its workers and its stakeholders well,” Mary Beth Gallagher, director of engagement at Domini Impact Investments, said. “These are issues that are related to the company’s long-term success.” The renewed pressure comes after shareholders say the company failed to respond to their concerns adequately last year. A group of 70 shareholders with a collective $4 trillion invested in Nike sent a letter to CEO John Donahoe last October asking the company to enable payments to workers at Cambodian Violet Apparel Co. owned by Nike supplier Ramatex, who say they have not received required compensation after they were suddenly fired in 2020, and Thai Hong Seng Knitting Co., who allege underpayment. The letter also urged Nike to incorporate social responsibility principles like the American Bar Association Model Contract Clauses and the Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative, specifically named in the re-introduced proposal. Shareholders said those frameworks that integrate human rights due diligence into supply contracts allow the brand to ensure a more ethical production process. Chavi Keeney Nana, director of the equitable global supply chain program at the Interfaith Center on Corporate Responsibility, said shareholders did not receive a response after several attempts to reach out. “It boggles the mind that Nike has allowed this conversation to go unanswered,” Keeney Nana said. Nike did meet with investors after they filed their formal 2024 resolution, but the shareholders said they were not satisfied with the response. The company did not respond to requests for comment but recommended in its 2024 proxy statement released late Thursday that shareholders vote against both proposals in September. Nike already publishes information on how it identifies, assesses, and manages human rights risks and expects suppliers to share in that commitment. The sports retailer did not respond to a request for comment. “The Company works with suppliers, industry associations, brands, civil society, and other stakeholders to facilitate world-class, safe, and healthy workplaces for the people making our products,” Nike wrote in its opposition statement. Nike told Bloomberg Law in 2023 it conducted independent investigations into the 2020 allegations and found no evidence to support claims in Cambodia. An independent third-party investigation and legal review concluded that Thai workers were compensated in accordance with local law and Nike’s Code of Conduct, the company said. Martin Buttle, who works on labor issues at CCLA Investment Management and was one of the letter’s authors, said that Nike’s response indicates their code is insufficient to ensure worker safety. That’s why this year’s shareholder bid asks for additional oversight mechanisms, he said. “There are uneven power relations in a supply chain and the actions of brands can very much influence the degree to which suppliers can uphold certain standards,” Buttle said. “It’s designed to be a little bit more even and balance the responsibilities.” Some investors said they are hoping this year’s more targeted resolution—introduced by the Shareholder Association for Research and Education— will elicit a better response from the company. “Last year’s proposal was very broad,” said Sarah Couturier-Tanoh, an analyst at the shareholder association. “Our proposal is focused on key approaches to managing risk and recommendations for the future.” Investors are focused on strengthening Nike’s commitments going forward, rather than reflecting on past efforts, Couturier-Tanoh said. “It’s becoming evident that many companies like Nike are stuck in the old ways of doing human rights due diligence,” she said. “What we expect from the company is to be transparent and forceful about its approach to human rights, due diligence, and remediation in high-risk countries.”
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